
Gorgeous view from Angkhang Nature Resort
What!? No air-conditioning?? My Thai companions cried in disbelief as we arrive at Doi Angkhang Nature Resort in a picturesque little town at the peak of Doi (Mt) Angkhang, the sixth tallest mountain in Thailand. In fact, air-conditioning is not required due to the all year round cool weather. In the heights of summer (April-May), the evenings are cool at around 20 degrees celsius, while day time temperature hovers at less than 30 degrees. In the cooler months, the temperature can plummet to as low as -2 degrees.
So here we were at Doi Angkhang in the beginning of April, trying to escape the heat. The air on top of the mountain was clean and clear. The scenery breathtaking. As we approached our resort (Doi Angkhang Nature Resort), we were greeted with bright flowers (top photo). The staff there was very friendly, and the bungalows were very well-maintained, comfortable, clean and spacious. As mentioned earlier, there was no air-conditioning, but the rooms come equipped with a fan and each bed has an electric blanket. The breakfast was quite good - you can choose between an American style (eggs, toast, sausages, etc) or Thai style (rice porridge). Talking about breakfast, their homemade pineapple & strawberry jams were particularly good. Just minutes walk down the road, we find the little town and right next door, the star attraction of the mountain, Royal Agricultural Station Angkhang.

Garden 80, Royal Agricultural Station Angkhang
Royal Agricultural Station Angkhang
The Royal Agricultural Station Angkhang is a project started by King Bhumibol to research temperate climate fruit, and to encourage the local hilltribes to cultivating crops like fruits and flowers instead of growing opium. These days, most of the hill tribes in the area work for this project. Originally, the station only consisted of temperate fruit trees, which shed their leaves in the winter, and because of this, visitors complained that “there was nothing to see”. Flower gardens were then introduced, resulting in a number spectacular gardens including Garden 80, Scented Garden, Rhododendron & Azalea Garden, Temperate Flower House, Bonsai Garden, and many more! The Royal Agricultural Station Angkhang is indeed a garden and nature lover’s Eden.

If you’re after a bit more excitement (just a little!),however, there may be something for you as well! At the back of the Bonsai Garden, we discovered a staircase up to the “Natural Rock Garden” consisting of interesting natural rock formations. Once there, it’s like a maze to get lost in. On the way back, we realised that there were many paths leading down, and there were no signposts. We were lost! We ended up, not back in the Bonsai Garden, but, as we realised later, the Plants Propagation Centre next door. So if you do decide to check out the Natural Rock Garden do be careful!
Other attractions:
So we have the Royal Agricultural Station Angkhang, what else is there to do?
The Town

The town itself is very small and has a Chinese Village feel to it, basically because a lot of the shop owners here are of Yunnanese descent. Here (right photo), we have Khun Ti Lek giving us a tea tasting/demonstration session. The tea sold here are predominantly locally grown in Doi Angkhang. Khun Ti Lek’s family actually owns a few businesses in town, including a guest house and a Yunnanese restaurant, Ting Ting, where we had one lunch.

Super delicious mushrooms in soy sauce
The food at Ting Ting, incidentally, was delicious! Of particular note were the mushrooms fried in soy sauce (we had to order another serving!), and the local specialty, Ginseng Soup (with house chicken or pork) - very interesting and tasty! We also had this at the resort the night before, and it was great there too. The Yunnan Stir-fried noodles were also great!

This preserved plum is called "Love"
The town was pretty quiet (in April) compared to the winter months, when most of the visitors come, and there is a fascinating hill tribe market selling all types of interesting food! This time of the year, the market isn’t as happening, but the restaurants and shops are still open. There are several shops selling a variety of preserved plums, strawberries, local tea, etc. The friendly vendors were more than happy for us to have a taste of all their goodies. In terms of price, we found the produce here are cheaper than in Chiang Mai. If you get a chance to try the preserved strawberries, please do - they were luscious!
Military Base & Norlae Village
Why would you want to see the military base? Because this is a military camp right on the border with Myanmar. The soldiers are friendly and you are able to walk around the camp, look at the bunkers overlooking the Myanmar-Thai border. Local villagers are permitted to cross the border to trade with their counterparts in Myanmar, but no, tourists won’t be able to cross the border.

Peeking over the Thai-Myanmar Border at Norlae Village
The residents of Norlae Village are Palong people from Myanmar. It is said that they walked seven days from Myanmar when they first heard about the Royal Project and petitioned the King to allow them to stay in Thailand. Land at Norlae Village was subsequently set aside for the Palong people.
Kobdong Village
Kobdong Village is home to the Black Muser people, originally from Tibet. You’ll be able to see how these hill tribe people live and purchase their handicrafts like grass bracelets and musical instruments. Most still live in very simple huts in poverty, but you’ll be able to see the odd satellite dish or two, and the million dollar view from their homes, at least in the summer months. In winter, there is a sea of mist that blankets over the mountains.

Million dollar views from the simple homes of Muser people
Fast Facts
- Doi Angkhang is on the Thai-Myanmar Border, 160 km from Chiang Mai city. The drive takes 3 hours. The last section takes you up a steep winding road with breathtaking views up the Angkhang Mountain.
- You can visit Doi Angkhang any time of the year, but the best time is in the winter months, and Feb-March when the flowers are in full bloom. There may be some rain in May-July, and a lot of rain (sometimes the whole day) in Aug-Sep.
- Low season is from April-September; High Season is from October-March
Where to Stay?
- Angkhang Nature Resort (3 stars) - an ecofriendly resort, managed by the Amari Group. The resort was voted Best Eco Resort in Asia in 2000 by Travel Asia magazine. This is the luxurious option for Doi Angkhang.
- Chalets @ Royal Agricultural Research Station - comfortable bungalows/chalets. There are 2 restaurants serving food grown in the Royal Project.
Getting there
- The only way of getting there is by car. Indigo Chiang Mai Holidays offers a transfer service and accommodation/tour packages to Doi Angkhang. Please contact us for more information.
Useful links for more information on Doi Angkhang
See you soon in Chiang Mai’s Garden of Eden! : )